I am looking to buy a new flute and I wanted to know what is a split e mechanism, and can anyone reccomend some good flutes and brands??

A split E mechanism is intended to produce a more solid E3. It does so by closing one of the keys associated with the G key (LH3), which reduces venting and will make it easier to hit E without cracking and to slur from A to E. They have their disadvantages, though. Unless you have a clutch on it (essentially an on/off switch), the split E will interfere with some trills and can slightly affect the pitch of A2 (generally flattens it). In combination with an inline G mechanism, a split E can also cause the mechanism to bind. The High E problem can be conquered without applying a split E (I've never used one, and have absolutely no problem with E's or sluring from A). If you want a cheaper alternative, a high E facilitator (which is a disk or crescent set into the tonehole that would be closed by the split e) will have the same effect, is far cheaper (roughly $100), and can be placed after the flute is built, and removed later. For pictures and definitions, check the glossary on fluteworld.com. What level flute are you looking at purchasing, and approximately how much are you willing to spend? This will help us make valid suggestions for you brandwise.

This link (you have to scroll down a little) has a great illustration to see what a split E mechanism looks like. Also has a nice description.

Oops, forgot the link!

http://www.miyazawa.com/enhance.htm

I have this "split e" thing on my flute too. I've never used it..but i think i heard somewhere that you could take it off. Do i need to go to a repair person to take it off? or is it something i could do?..
(i heard that the split e causes more weight)

I have this "split e" thing on my flute too. I've never used it..but i think i heard somewhere that you could take it off.

The Split E mechanism is automatic. If you play High E, it will do what it's supposed to do (if in proper regulation). There are some split E mechanisms where the linkage to the lower G key can be "turned on or off". Pearl uses a keycup within a keycup ring to slide the post out of the way of the lever. Others have the lever arm in two pieces and you can swing part of it out of the way.

Joe B

ahhh..i see. I have a Pearl..so i wonder if it's on or off? This is so confusing..and keycup within a keycup. heehee.. So how do you know if it's on or off?..

keycup within a keycup. heehee.. So how do you know if it's on or off?..

Very simple, if you are looking down on the flute from playing position, There is a little post that sticks out from the lower G key. That is in the 3 o'clock position so that the lever arm can reach it. If you have a higher ended pearl where you can pivot that arm away to about the 1 o'clock position the post can be pushed out of the way so the lever arm doesn't reach it.

Joe B

I think Split E is a waist of time. I can make a high E perfectly without it. The C# Trill Key seem usless too, You could easily use the alternative finguring for D.
Fingering: 100│0'00b

Im not sure if i wrote that correctly so basically you put down your left hand index finger, your right endex finger on the the tiny key inbetween the F key and Eb key(i forgot what its called), and your pinky.

It doesn't make a clear note so you shouldn't use it on a long note, but it works perfectly for trills.

<Added>

Oops I meant E natural Key instead of Eb key.

and Pinky = Right hand pinky.

THANKS JoeB! i'll check it out!

OH! penny, i have the same thing too. The c# roller thing..ahh, never knew how that worked. COOL! i'll try that too. I have so much things added onto my flute but don't know how to do it!

Accually I don't have any of the add-on keys on my flute, but I can tell by looking at them that half of them aren't necessary. The Roller on the other hand would be pretty useful since pinkies dont naturaly roll that way.

At the moment, because I'm still learning, I think it's best to have only what you really need. Example: Open hole Step-up flutes are necessary, but the add-ons aren't.

Also I believe if you can make a really good sound on a low budget flute, the sound you make on a newer flute when you get one will most likely be unbelievable.

Oh, wait I just had a thought(I know how unusual that is). Since I've never personaly used a C# trill key I'm not sure if the alternative finguring will work.

If the C# trill key is for a low C3 trill that alternative fingering wont work. Either way, it's still useless.

<Added>

oops i meant "low C#" not "C3". sorry

^_^ YUP, that's true. I just recently got my first semi-pro flute..and the sound is unbelievable. I used to have a gemienhardt 2sp..it gave some hard times...yeah.
I should try the the new add-ons though, even though it's not necessary. See how it works But you're right..you don't need them..maybe it can make life easier though!:D...

Yeah, some of them might make it easier but the thing that bothers me is if they start making add-on to fix every little thing that is slightly difficult, you're going to have so many add-ons that you'll lose sight of the main point of the flute. The sound.

I'm tought that if you don't need you shouldn't waist money on it, no matter how cheap it is.