GMH M2 Loose cork

    
GMH M2 Loose cork    16:55 on Tuesday, August 15, 2006          

jose_luis
(2369 points)
Posted by jose_luis

I had my spare M2 Gemeinhardt repaired recently. The technician changed one pad and adjustred everything quite well.

However, he returned the instrument with a loose cork. I did non notice this and now I cannot return it to the technician as this happened abroad.

I have these doubts:

- I do not longer know the correct position for the cork. I remember that I had checked it with the cleaning rod mark and it was (originally) displaced from the center, abour 3mm to the crown side. But, was this the correct position? How could I find the optimum position for the cork?

- I think it has leaks, depending on the position I set it. Coudl I use teflon tape to increase slightly the cork diameter and use the isnturment at e least durin gthe rest of the holidays period?

Thank you





Re: GMH M2 Loose cork    17:18 on Tuesday, August 15, 2006          

Flutist06
(1545 points)
Posted by Flutist06

Hey, Jose Luis, I'm not sure about the teflon tape (depending on how poorly it's sealing it may or may not work), but until you can get the cork replaced, try heating it with a hairdryer to temporarily expand it and get a better seal. The mark on most cleaning rods is somewhere near 17.3 mm (some closer than others) from the end of the rod, and that line should be just about centered in the embouchure hole. Some people will adjust it slightly for a better response, or because the mark on their cleaning rod is not quite right, but so too much can have a negative effect on intonation, so placing the cork so that the line is dead center is the safest way to go. You may want to measure your cleaning rod to see how close it is to 17.3 mm from end to mark. Hope that helps!


Re: GMH M2 Loose cork    17:53 on Tuesday, August 15, 2006          

jose_luis
(2369 points)
Posted by jose_luis

Thanks Flutist06.

Just to be sure, you mean heating the cork outside the headjoint and inserting it hot, or heating and then leave it to cool down before mounting in the HJ or heat just the mounted ensemble?

The rod has a mark at 17.5 mm as measured with a standard caliper. Error of measurement can well be +/- 0.2 mm as the mark itself is broad and I have to estimate the calliper position as being exactly on the mark.






Re: GMH M2 Loose cork    21:10 on Tuesday, August 15, 2006          

Flutist06
(1545 points)
Posted by Flutist06

Well, it sounds like your cleaning rod is pretty accurately marked, then, so it should be pretty easy for you. As for the cork, I have not tried this method personally (all my corks fit currently, and I just learned this a short time ago so I haven't had cause to try it), but the way I was told to do it, you heat the cork while it's mounted in the head.


Re: GMH M2 Loose cork    04:20 on Wednesday, August 16, 2006          

jose_luis
(2369 points)
Posted by jose_luis

Thanks.

Before trying that (it may be irreversible) and as you have not tried it personally, I will wait for some other input or try the teflon solution which is easily reversible.

Thank you anyway.


Re: GMH M2 Loose cork    07:01 on Wednesday, August 16, 2006          

JButky
(657 points)
Posted by JButky

You can use teflon tape on the cork, Your'e not going to hurt it if it's already loose!

The 17.3mm mark is only a guide or starting point. The routine for adjusting the cork for optimal placement per person is outlined on my website:

http://www.langemusic.com/Articles/flutetune.htm

Being a couple mm towards the crown side is normal and beneficial for a lot of flutes.

The actual starting point is taken from the diameter of the bore at the center of the embochure hole. If you can't measure that, use 17.3mm as a starting point and use the procedure I posted in the link..

Push the cork out to the tenon side and reinsert it the same way. Don't pull it out through the crown end.. Clear tape (magic or other household types) work well also for temporary fixes.

Don't heat the cork directly. You are more likely to burn it and then you've got a bigger problem. If you want to wax it and heat from the outside AFTER it is reinserted, that is OK..

Joe B


   




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