Hello!
Does anyone out there know how to fit headjoints? I purchased an EC headjoint to go on my 481 and it is too fat. It goes in just a little, but after that, I feel like I would have to force it. Is there something I can do here at home, or would a repair person have to fit it?
Thank you!
Jaime

You can buy 400 grit sandpaper and sand a tiny bit off at a time around it. Just take a small piece and wipe it AROUND the tenon, NOT the length of it. Make sure to wipe any excess particles on the tenon after sanding before putting it back into the flute socket. Take masking or duct tape and put it around the top of the line where the tenon marking stops so that you avoid sanding above it.

I should also add that this will only work if it is a TAD bit too snug. If it is really was off, then yes, take it to a tech.

A very reliable technician had told me this that used to work for the Powell factory. This is what Powell even does and I have used this method many times without any danger. When one doesn't have that special tool, this will work just fine. Notice, I did say to clean the tennon off after doing this. So sorry, I have to disagree.

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Some how I knew you would have something to say about this and have to disagree. Lol!

Thanks for the info. I don't have a tool, and wouldn't want to buy one. When I am sanding, are you saying that I should sand in a circular motion (around the headjoint), and not up and down -- is that right? It really is just a tad to snug. Where would I be able to buy the paper? Thank you!

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Never mind -- I didn't read -- you said just regular 400 grit sandpaper. I guess you can get that just about anywhere. :)

Regarding the tool for fitting headjoints.... What are these tools called and where can they be purchased?

Thaas!!

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Oops, I mean Thanks!!

JaimeAlene
Do not do little circles around it. Just wipe completely around the tenon in one swipe going all the way around like a spiral till you get to the bottom. (If that makes any sense?) Sorry, I am not the best with descriptions.

Catman,
I have only ever seen this tool in the US of about $300, but perhaps Micron can tell us where you can find one cheaper.

Kara:

a comment/question:

I have used this sandpaper in the past (though not to fit headjoints); I have polished models for casting things in resin.

One can get almost a mirror-like surface, but it works fine (or better) when it is wet. I think that for tendons it would be better do it wet and not dry. The finish is finer and you do not risk to have particles embedded in the metal (a real risk. I'm afraid)

We call it "water sand paper" (well, its equivalent in Spanish) Its color is grey. It is used by professional painters, for example to polish before painting a car.

In fact, it can be wet with water but also with petrol spirit and other solvents, depending on the surface. For tendons I think water would be the best

Do you use it "dry"?

But go for it if you wish. I hate to have to say this, Kara, but your knowledge and experience in this issue just does not measure up.

Sorry, this is not my knowledge that I am sharing, this comes right from the Powell factory itself. I did tour the place and asked several questions including this one.

Next time I will be sure to consult the almighty and superior tech on this board before I ever respond again. Lol!

Is is just me, or does he get on anyone else's nerves too?

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JaimeAlene,
A former Powell worker told me to do this with headjoints, and I did do this on two of my headjoints with not problems what so ever, so rest assure you don't have to go out and buy a $300 tool or do the hassle of taking it to a repair tech, that may also end up ruining it with this expensive instrument. (I have been told about this happening too.) Other repair techs will tell you to go in and have it done, just to make money, I am sorry to say. I definitely would have never recommended this EXTREMELY fine sand paper if it didn't work and was harmful to the flute and I would have NEVER used it on my $2000 headjoint!

It seems like everything ends up being a debate when Micron enters the forum. Pity...


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jose_luis,
Yes, I was not told to wet it, but that is a very good idea. Thank you.

You know what.. me not paying attention and didn't want to go out to the garage to check to see what sand paper I had been using, I called out to my husband to tell me and he said 400. I DO NOT use 400, he told me the wrong one. I should have checked for myself because I couldn't remember off hand.

Now looking at this sand paper, yes, you are correct it would be to harsh to use. I was using 2000 grit that I purchased in the automotive section at Walmart. BIG difference!
That will teach me ever to ask my husband again!!!

I know this seams really lame like I am trying to cover my tracks here, but I promise I am telling the truth. PLEASE, forgive me, I admit I made a mistake. Still, Micron, you could have been a little more pleasant about it and for that matter the way you have been handling other members also. Just a thought... No hard feelings.

BTW would you still use sandpaper on a gold plated head?

I have never had a gold plated one that needed adjusting. Most gold plated headjoints should not have the tenon gold plated, IMO, that should be left alone because taking it on and off of a flute would eventually wear it off anyway. Gold plating is for looks anyway so, it wouldn't make a difference if you left the tenon un-plated anyway I suppose.

I would love to get one of those tools, but I have only ever found them for $300. Do you know where I might find one for cheaper? I have been using the local music stores. (The owner is a good Friend of mine and let's me do this on off hours.) It would be nice to have my own though.

I'm glad I didn't start scrubbing with the 400 grit sandpaper! Thanks for posting your correction Kara -- it means a lot to me that you would put the wellfare of my flute above any personal pride at having to correct yourself in front of Micron -- I really appreciate it!!

I think I might just try and sell the EC and buy a powell headjoint instead. I am trying out a Powell Conservatory from Flute World right now and the tone is so sweet I can't stand it. I only wonder if the headjoint would make my 481 sound like that.

I like the full sound that I get from my Powell headjoint, but it does take more air for me to play. I am sure it would sound really nice on your Yamaha. I don't care for the EC that much just because for me it lacked personality and just had one straight forward sound. It just didn't sing for me.

You know what you might want to try if you like a nice sweet sound is an Sankyo NRS1 headjoint. I absolutely LOVE mine, and have been playing it on my Powell for the past 6 months. I have it up for sale on usedflutes.com though because I am switching to one that has more resistance. I just love the sound and projection I can get out of it. I am testing two headjoints this week and if I don't like those, I most likely will end up keeping my Sankyo until I can go to a flute fair where I can try a whole bunch of them out.

It is too bad that you don't live near me because I would lone you my Powell or Sankyo to try out. I chose the Powell headjoint (which is a philharmonic cut with a 14K gold riser) out of over 40 other headjoints at the Powell factory.

So, if you do try out a Powell headjoint, make sure to try different headjoints of the same cut, because they do vary. Their new soloist headjoint cut is really nice. So far I like the sound that my Powell headjoint produces the best on my flute, but I just have a hard time with it with my asthma.

Here is the pictures of my Sankyo headjoint.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/flute_items/

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PS. I am really sorry about recommending the wrong grade of sanding paper. I am so glad that you didn't listen to me and use the 400! I would have felt horrilbe! I really need to be careful what I post next time. I would never want to give out the wrong advice on something. It was good that Micron caught that! Thank you Micron!

I actually had a problem similar to this, but with the footjoint on my Yamaha. The footjoint simply would not completely fit on the body, and taking it off without touching the mechanism was a chore. No matter how much I cleaned the tenon on the body and the inside of the footjoint, there was no improvement.

I eventually used a mildly abrasive silver polishing cloth on the tenon. I had to polish it awhile, and it turned the whole cloth black, but it did the trick. The footjoint slid right on and off after that.

I would only suggest doing this if your flute is solid silver, as the cloth could remove plating with repeated contact.

OK Micron, let's hear the bad news about this method.

OK Micron, let's hear the bad news about this method.

Ha!Ha!!! An eraser works too. It takes off metal when rubbing. But of course, it is not the proper way and it is said to harm the flute . I used to do this on my Bundy flute when I was a kid and it never hurt it. But I suppose if you take a microscope to it, you might say other wise. Quick! Go get your microscopes out and start checking your flute tenon! LOL!!!!

I really think that some people are a little high strung when it comes to do with anything with the flute.

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I should add, I was just talking in general in that last sentence and I wasn't referring to anyone inparticular. I didn't want that to be taken the wrong way.