Hey guys...how OPEN should the Eb key cup and pad be when the Eb key is depressed? I have a feeling mine is WAY too open...Thanks

-Dennis

Well, mine is right at 5 mm open, but my Eb is EXTREMELY fuzzy...and to top it off my D isn't that incredible sounding either. My E always cracks on me (E2). I am thinking maybe the Eb key has something to do with it. Otherwise...why would you "have" to use it in fingerings that don't require it to alter the pitch?

-Dennis

I wanted to let you know Micron that I fixed my problem. It wasn't the Eb cup. It was the fact that a few pads were warped a bit so they sat unevenly. After "reseating" the pads ghetto style..it plays like a dream...even the D, D#, and E. I think it might be the room that I play in. It gets quite hot in here during the day (as I live in Florida), and I believe the pads swell unevenly when the moisture gets to them (eventhough I swab the flute out every 6 or 7 minutes or so). Anywho...CRISIS AVERTED! Thanks!

-Dennis

a bad way? HAHAHAHAHAH!!!! I think someone returned this flute, and that's the one I got! I have had a few problems, but it beats my old flute. Now, if I would have paid 4-5K dollars for it..I would be !******! off (I chose to censor myself). As it stands, I can't complain TOO much. Of course if there are tiny holes in the pad, maybe they were compensating for the heat in seating them if they use a pad iron? My "reseating" involved a key wedge and some pad paper. Maybe the keys were just made too soft, and they are bending with my awkward hand position. Who knows, but for now...it's ""fixed""!!!

-Dennis

Micron Wrote:
The opening typically ranges from about 3.5 to 5 mm.

The 3.5mm (I use the .135" which is pretty close to that) is a good venting height. I disagree with Micron that anything near 5 mm is acceptable. The reason is not for venting but feel for the pinky levers. If your venting height needs to be more than 3.5mm you need to make adjustments elsewear.. Over 3.5mm, the facility for the RH pinky is compromised since the key stroke is too great and the footjoint is setup incorrectly.

Outside of the problem pads, a small cork adjustment will help the D# and E in the second register if there is a response problem.

The venting for each of the notes should be checked as well. That includes the D key and low C# key, each of which are governed by other keys. If the pads were seling OK, there is an indication of poor setup in general meaning key heights for the whole RH side of the instrument..


Joe B

Oh trust me...there is some poor setup on the RH side of the instrument. That is for SURE!

-Dennis

on this vein, I heard that there was some documentation of optimal venting for every key on the flute. I understand that it is usually closer to the tone hole than factory standards. Does anyone have the specs for this? Thanks!!

No specs for it, but I have to say with my experience now that it is somewhat true (except for the Eb key). I just repositioned all of my keys because if you pressed one down, the other ones that were supposed to go down with it had to wait for the first one to catch up to them and then they all moved. they all closed fine, but some were uneven if you looked at the flute sideways. some were higher some lower. I redid the posture of the keys, and even made them a little closer than they were, and have to say I am impressed by the clear tone now...whereas before it was kind of fuzzy. You have to be careful though. I got the Bb Spatula key (the one that goes down when you play A) a little too close at first and my B was very weak and a bit flat. I love this trial and error thing, though. I'm kinda glad I got this flute, and not some really expensive one. It has taught me a great deal about fixing problems on less than superior instruments!

-Dennis

I heard that there was some documentation of optimal venting for every key on the flute.

Well it's not "documented" but the trills and vent should not exceed .110" (this is the subjective one), the main body pads are fine at .125" and footjoint at .135"

Joe B