The YFL-381 arrived today and so far it seems a little easier to play than my old YFL-24N as far as making the notes come out. I guess it's because the pads are new and seal better. I don't know if I will keep it or not but I sure do like it. I have 45 day to send it back to WWBW. The only thing is that I orded the gold lip plate and got the silver. No big deal except I paid for the gold. Anyway what is the best thing to use to wipe finger prints off?

The pads shouldn't seal better just because they are newer. Older pads, as long as they aren't ripped, cracked, or otherwise damaged, can be seated to seal just as well as a new pad. You should try to get your money from WWBW for that lip plate. Things like that are one reason why I don't buy from them anymore...It just happens way too often. There's really no reason to get a gold plated lip other than looks anyway, so not having it won't affect how the flute sounds. As for removing fingerprints, I like a microfiber cloth, which can be gotten from many music stores, and flute makers. It will remove the oils and residues left on the metal without taking off the metal as well, like a polishing cloth would. Short of that, use a soft, lint-free cloth to wipe it down.

Thanks, I'll look for a microfiber cloth today. I also think that WWBW sent me a so called used "A" quality instead of the "new" that I paid for. I know this because the model description on the paper works says: YFL381HA. Unless I'm wrong I believe that "A" means used "A" quality which is fine as long as they credit me. I emailed them and If I don't hear back I will have to phone them about it.

Yamaha, as well as some other makers, use a system whereby the model number and a series of letters afterward pretty much tell you what features a flute from them has. The 381H has a B foot (the 381 has a C), but I'm not familiar with what the A might mean here. I suppose it could be something that WWBW threw in there on their own, or it could be some more obscure designation from Yamaha that I'm not familiar with. Good luck getting them to credit you the money, though.

"The pads shouldn't seal better just because they are newer. Older pads, as long as they aren't ripped, cracked, or otherwise damaged, can be seated to seal just as well as a new pad."

Although this is a valid statement, the fact is that generally older pads aren't going to seal as well because the pads and corks can tend to deform a bit for various reasons. One example would be seasonal temperature and humidity changes.

Then too, when the flute is taken to an average repair person the repair is intended to suffice because the average repair person isn't going to spend the time to do a superior job when they aren't charging the customer for that level of work. The average repair person is also more in line with repairing wind instruments in general and not exactly a flute specialist where finer tolerances should be observed. These things are very true in my area of the U.S. at least.

Then too, when the flute is taken to an average repair person the repair is intended to suffice because the average repair person isn't going to spend the time to do a superior job when they aren't charging the customer for that level of work. The average repair person is also more in line with repairing wind instruments in general and not exactly a flute specialist where finer tolerances should be observed. These things are very true in my area of the U.S. at least.

I think this is true. The tech in my area is a good tech but he is always very busy. He can also play just about any instrument on what seems to be almost a professional level. I get the feeling that because of this any leaky pads that would give a biginner problems might slip by someone, even a tech, who is an advanced player and can easily compansate. Of course that is just my very unqualified openion.

I would tend to include deformation from weather changes in the category of "damaged."

In any case, you are of course right about techs. I use some very talented flute specialists when it comes to my nicer instruments, and I tend to assume that everyone else does too, though I know this is not always the case. Still, a good business person, even if they are not a flute specialist, would not let flutes with leaks go. With the various tools and techniques used by techs, it's not terribly difficult to detect a leak. Correcting it may be more of a challenge, but at the very least I would expect them let me know that they found something wrong, but what I'm paying isn't going to cover them fixing it, and let me decide if I'm willing to pay extra. I would be far more disappointed if I got my flute back and it didn't perform well than I would be if I had to pay a little extra to get it fixed properly.

Well,
As you know, one thing is that some people may live in a larger metro area where the possibility of a high quality flute tech would be bette and some may live in an area where they have no choice but to use the local tech.

Any tech who isn't working at 100% may also be doing their best but may miss something ot they may make a repair which doesn't work in the long run. Some may also take into account the need of the player. If a player is in college or is a pro. they may be less likely to do a 1/2 baked repair. ~Just some possibilities.

I don't know what it is but there is definately a difference in the playability between the new 381 and the old 24N. I can get low notes on the new flute that I can't get on the old flute that the tech checked out. I can almost get low C and even B on the new flute but can't even come close on the old flute.

"I can get low notes on the new flute that I can't get on the old flute that the tech checked out. "

Well, it's easy to say that the tech missed something. It's also easy for a tech to miss something. Maybe a leaking cork in the head that appears to be tight. Maybe a leaking joint. The Tech could have missed a leaking pad or, depending upon the flute construction, a joint where there is solder such as the embouchure plate attachment point.
Could even be excessive dirt in the emb. hole or a worn hole.

Did the tech play test the flute down to lowest notes or did you test it infront of the tech? If you can, show him.

One other comment, I think that the newer Yamaha should have a better relative intonation even if it's at A=442.

Well, it's easy to say that the tech missed something. It's also easy for a tech to miss something. Maybe a leaking cork in the head that appears to be tight. Maybe a leaking joint. The Tech could have missed a leaking pad or, depending upon the flute construction, a joint where there is solder such as the embouchure plate attachment point.
Could even be excessive dirt in the emb. hole or a worn hole.

Did the tech play test the flute down to lowest notes or did you test it infront of the tech? If you can, show him.

One other comment, I think that the newer Yamaha should have a better relative intonation even if it's at A=442.

I beleive he played it from low to high if I'm remembering right. He also did some adjusting on it because he would adjust then play and then adjust until he could play all the way up to the highest notes.

<Added>

Forgot to mention that the head joint is really loose. It slides on really easy with no resistance.

Ahh Good to hear from you Micron.
and happy holidays.


"He also did some adjusting on it because he would adjust then play and then adjust until he could play all the way up to the highest notes."

It's the lower notes that would be a better test.
A gradual descending to add more keys/pads can sometimes find the culprit.

"Forgot to mention that the head joint is really loose. It slides on really easy with no resistance."
That could be it alone.

If you have some plumber's teflon tape you may be able to tighten it a bit to test by wrapping some of the tape around the head joint where it inserts. Or as Micron suggests, try changing the head joint. It might fit.

"4. Flute repair specialists may have higher standards in general than the average general repair technician, but a good woodwind repair technician will have precision standards in ALL his work, no matter what instrument. Flutes do not have a monopoly on the requirement for precision."

Not to trash any techs Micron . When I mentioned this, I was thinking that an average tech person knows enough to fix the average WW. A flute tech might know some details about certain issues and how to solve them better. In this case it seems that this tech missed a loose head joint that probably fouled up the low notes. This does not have as much of a noticeable effect on the higher notes.
And I know that you'll get me for this Micron but an analogy might be in going to the corner gas station for a repair on your BMW. It may be OK and the problem may get solved but for a tricky issue, a BMW dealer mechanic may do better....and cost more. Now if this flute was taken to Micron in the first place it would play very well now, I'm 100% sure.

I will swap heads (great idea BTW) tomorrow when I start my practice session. If teflon tape works that would be a good cheap fix. Thanks for all the help on this matter.

I think it's because the flute is so old. It's more than 20 years old and very well used so probably all the taking the head on and off just wore it out.

Assuming it's been played steadily over the course of those 20 years, the previous owner should have noticed and had it fit if it were loose. If it's been sitting in a closet for much of that, the chances of friction being the culprit are somewhat lowered. My Yamaha, which is of approximately the same age, and has been played VERY heavily by serious high school and college players since it was new has not needed the head fit, and I have my dad's old flute (roughly 40 years old), and its head is as well fit as ever. I don't think age alone is enough to explain the loose fit, though what is, I don't know.