I am in the process of probably buying a new flute. After spending
several hours in both Just Flutes and All Flutes Plus, trying pretty
much everything I could lay my hands on (and afford), I decided I
liked the Miyazawa Type 1 best. I have had it out on approval for the
last week and am pretty convinced, but I thought I'd ask and see if
anyone had anything to say against it that I should consider before
going ahead.

New flute I'm thinking of buying:
Miyazawa Type 1, solid silver everything, open-hole, offset G, C foot,
E mec, 14K riser

What I've been playing for last 7 or so years:
Sheridan silver head on Altus 807 body, silver plated, closed hole

There's another factor to consider besides just what I like the sound
of. I have a history of tendonitis/RSI in my wrists and knuckles
(started in college) which flares up now and then when I do too much
playing.

1) I'm concerned about the extra weight of a solid silver body over a
plated one. The Miyazawa feels heavy to me, but I'm not sure how much
difference there actually is between makes, and how much this would
even affect my wrists anyway.

2) I like open-holed but have been playing a closed-hole for years
because of the inflammation in the knuckles of my right hand. I
thought I would never play open again, but the guy in Just Flutes
suggested Powell's Plug-Os, which are really well-made high quality
metal plugs and so much better than corks or bits of plastic. I
actually only need the last 2 holes on the right hand closed, so I
think although it is unusual, this is the best compromise situation
for me. Additionally, the keywork feels particularly smooth under the
fingers; I am told this is due to the new Brogger system.

Any thoughts?

Silverfin

Miyazawas are nice flutes....I don't like them personally, but there's no denying that they build good instruments. For number one, you should probably get someone to figure out the difference in weight for you and discuss it with your doctor. Some people have to be very careful what material they play on, and with what options, as weight can do harm to your arms/hands. As for Plug-O's, they do a very good job, and you should have no problem with them. If you have wrist problems already, be sure to keep the full set on hand in case you have a flare-up, or discover that you can't play on a French keyed flute after all.

Agreed, Miyazawa flutes a wonderful, so you can't go wrong there. I also have bad hands and wrists which swell up and make my all silver Powell and open holes a bit too much for me. Choosing a C foot is also a good option. I ended up buying a very light weight PCM alloy Miyazawa to use when my hands could not handle the Powell. At least you chose the Miya which is till lighter then a Powell, so that is good I have also in the past used Powell plug O's which are great but I still prefer the clear silicone plugs because I can not feel the edges of them like I can on the plug O's which tend to bother me. Both work fine.

Have you tried a silver plated body with a nice headjoint? I always joke around and say that my Powell would be perfect if it were just all silver plated. I think that is like sacrilegious or something to Powell to have plating though. Lol!

My advice from one hand sufferer to another, try and determine the best you can if this flute feels like it is going to be too heavy or give you more hand problems. See if you can have it on trial a week longer and explain the situations to top winds. Comfort is so important!

Best of luck to you with your decision, though it sound like you have already made up your mind

I am no expert, but this comment could be useful: I tried a few flutes when I was out searching for a new one and there were of course very noticeable differences in the perceived weight. But I think they were due to tube thickness more than tube material. A thin wall Yamaha as mine is very light,compared to others and in spite of its B foot.

Thanks for the responses. Replying to a few at once:

As far as medical opinion is concerned, I do my physio exercises (although not as often as I should), take anti-inflammatories as and when necessary, and avoid certain hand positions (e.g. press-ups) and movements (e.g. using a mouse, writing in biro). Without meaning any disrespect, I know far better than my doctor what is likely to cause problems, and how to manage them, as I've been living with the condition for the last 10 years.

If I wanted a plated body (even with nice head) then I would probably just stick with what I've been playing for the last few years. As far as I'm aware Altus and Sheridan are well-respected brands?

I'm not sure what 'French-keyed' means.

On the whole, I'm pretty convinced by the Miya. I was just checking out if anyone had any horror stories to tell which might put me off.

Someone on another forum said that the tuning in the 3rd octave was bad, but I checked it with a tuner and it seems ok, certainly no worse than my Altus. Is any flute model absolutely in tune on the high notes?

Anyone have an opinion on drawn tone-holes versus soldered? The only difference I can see is that the model just above mine (in price) has soldered rather than drawn.

Thanks again,
Silverfin

For me the best scale and most in tune flute was the Powells. The Miyas tend to run more sharp in the third register but it is not so off that is would cause any problems. Everyone is different though. I just suggusted a silver plated flute because often times they play identical to an all silver body but are lighter. An Altus is certainly a good flute. You know best for you hands and what will be okay and what not so if YOU like the flute then that is the most that matters.

If the intonation works for you, don't worry about it.

The E Mechanism will add weight to the flute, as will a C# trill and possibly rollers. A B-foot is heavier than a C-foot, obviously, and solid silver construction as opposed to plating will be heavier also.

I use the Powell Plug-Os, they work fine for me and they are easily removed with the little 'tool' that comes with. Reinstallation only takes a moment.

It is possible to have the springs on the keys made more firm (or lighter if that's what you want). Nancy Shinn (flute tech) explained to me that the key should lift your finger, otherwise you are asking for a playing injury. My Yamaha 881 is very, very light and fast, but still lifts my fingers. My friend (conservatory trained) has a Brannen which is a bit stiffer. I don't know what it costs to replace the springs, but suspect it would be significant if you want to do the whole flute.

Soldered tone holes are usually crafted to a very fine tolerance, and are very flat, although I'm sure you could find an exception. Drawn toneholes can be quite level. Fancier/more expensive flutes with drawn toneholes are more likely to have level toneholes than cheaper models. The idea with the soldered toneholes is that the flute body can be perfectly consistent since the toneholes aren't extruded from the body metal, but to my knowledge modern technique has good drawn toneholes down pretty well.
My Burkart/Phelan 'Complete Guide to the Flute and Piccolo' says:
"Drawn toneholes have the advantage of uniformity and lack of weight. They are weaker than soldered toneholes, however, and may not be repairable. Soldered toneholes, on the other hand, are thicker and stronger, so they offer more material with which to work with and are easily repaired. They also can be faced to a flatter surface than drawn tone holes."


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The more level the toneholes are, the easier it will be to get the padding and adjustment very good.
My local flute tech says his biggest nightmare is open-hole flutes with un-level toneholes, since the open hole keys are more demanding of padding technique than the closed hole keys.
"French Keys" are open-hole keys, "plateau" means closed holes.

I use the Powell Plug-Os, they work fine for me and they are easily removed with the little 'tool' that comes with. Reinstallation only takes a moment.

I am glad you mentioned that. I was a bit concerned when taking them in and out becauuse the tool has to lay in between the tone hole and pad and it seems to have to put a lot of pressure on them when taking them out. I suppose it would be fine if you only take them out once in a while, but I don't think it is good on the mechanism to with stand that otherwise. I may be wrong, after all Powell does make them and I am sure they are not going to make anything harmful to the flute. I am just over pertective of my flute I guess.

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I should also add that I would use the Powell plug O's as to oppose the silicon clear plugs on a Miyazawa only because you can not push the silicon plugs out on the open holes of a Miyazawa for it will take out the bushing that holds the key pads in place. The plugs O's go out and up from under so those would be fine. I suppose that would be one the only things that I don't like about my Miya.

If I wanted a plated body (even with nice head) then I would probably just stick with what I've been playing for the last few years. As far as I'm aware Altus and Sheridan are well-respected brands?

May I ask why you don't want a plated body? What's drawn you to the Miyazawa?

Kara, as best I can tell, the plastic removal tool puts minimal pressure on the pads during removal of a Plug-o. I just press until the Plug-O is loose, then close the key and use my fingernail to take out the Plug-O. I also close the key putting them in, so I'm not putting sideways pressure on the key, though it probably would go in without damage/bending the key.
My Plug-Os cost a bit, $22.50. Corks would be cheaper, and you can take them out yourself, but the average Joe has the flute tech put them in, which takes more time (to get to the shop) if not more money.
When I got my first open-hole flute, I had no idea that you could plug the holes! (I had just graduated high school, so no more band class, and it was a surprise present that my Dad picked out for me.) It was quite a learning curve, with inline G too.

Thanks, everyone - really helpful!

There were 2 main reasons I wanted to upgrade in the first place is mostly because in the last 2-3 years I've been getting a lot more concerts playing principal flute and solo stuff, so I have become extra-aware of the sound I'm making. Although obviously how one plays is as important (probably more) that what one plays on, I have felt like my flute is holding me back in terms of the range of dynamics and tone colours I can make. Also, I wanted something with a really smooth mechanism to minimise RSI.

I didn't particularly insist on solid silver, I tried a range of materials and combinations, and found that I liked the sound of flutes with thick silver wall better (even when chopping and changing heads). I personally tend to go for a darker, richer sound (as opposed to light & bright) and this seemed best for that.

Silverfin

I tried a range of materials and combinations, and found that I liked the sound of flutes with thick silver wall better (even when chopping and changing heads)

If that's the case, I would go for a C foot model to reduce the weight and keep extra keys to a minimum. Miyazawas are great flutes. Flutes have different "feels" in the hands. Tactile sense is quite perceptible when choosing a flute so make sure you are comfortable with it. It has been my experience that miyazawas do feel "Smaller" in my hands compared to say Pearls for instance, which feel "bigger". In other words it's not just about the weight...

Mechanisms can be adjusted. Having a flute key tensioned to "lift your finger" though would be a bit too heavy for my taste. There is an ultimate point where, if the spring tension is too light the key action will feel sluggish on fast passages depending on how you play. The good news is that all of that can easily be adjusted for you.

Plugs...Who cares what kind...whatever works..

If you have a miyazawa with Straubs installed drawn tone holes or not...the tone hole rims will be FLAT. That's a requirement for straubs (which are pretty standard on Miyazawas. So I wouldn't worry about it..

Joe B