I have a 19 century wood flute (five keys type) and I want to extract some key pins to check and clean (the keys do not move freely). It is not a screw, looks like s simple pin that serves as an axe for the key mechanism.

What is the normal procedure? Should it be pushed out from one side? How and which side, if it can be known in advance? Are there a special tools for this? I suppose that just knocking it softly from one side is not advisable.. or is it?
Any hints?

Thanks a lot...

You need to push from the correct side as the pin may be slightly tapered &/or one post hole may be too small for the pin to pass through.

WD-40 or key oil, carefully applied as not to get on the wood part of the flute, may be used to make it easier to remove the pin.

I usually start the process by pushing the end of the pin with the slightly blunted tip of a Stanley awl. Measure the exposed end of the pin. Use a wire at least 0.2 mm smaller to push the rest of the pin out. I've cheated by using small flat nosed pliers to remove the pin once a suffient amount of it is exposed, but you run the risk of damaging the pin if you are not very, very careful. Critical is to find a way to hold the flute firmly without damaging it, & to avoid stabbing your hand or slipping & damaging the flute with the awl. Also, there is the possiblity that the post will loosen, & then you'll have to deal with its repair. I try to press down on the post while applying slight pressure with the awl.

Thank you. I agree it is a job for an experienced technician.

But the flute has mostly a only a personal value; on the market it is fairly common (I have been told), selling for about 150$. I am sure a technician will charge probably more than that, as it also needs new pads.

I do not want to break it but there is not much to lose anyway. I have managed to get sound out of it for the first time (some teflon plumber tape on the tenon between barrel and body did the trick).

Next step it to get at least two notes, but the keys are almost stuck and of course they do not seal at all. I have some new pads I bought some time ago for my old Gemeinhardt and they seem to fit the key cup.

I wonder if the new pad stuff would be OK for the body hole (it is not flat, but rather curved following the cylindrical surface of the tube). Any ideas?

Look at the following web page.

http://www.mcgee-flutes.com/repad.html

I have a Casey Burns keyed flute. I wish I could remember what the key pad material is called. It's like foam rubber. It's flat when first installed, but then takes the shape of the flute contour & tone hole, & seals very well. Installation should be very forgiving.

Micron,

I think you are describing pin removal on a traditional modern flute. The 5 key wood flutes are usually just an steel axle. Often one side is turned (looks like a cane) which stops against the post, (but not always) The bent end is usually the side for removal. You can easily grip those with pliers and just pull them out. The other just need a slight push to expose part of them and then pull them out with pliers..

Joe B

The pins in the keys of my flute look like made of brass (according to colour). No ends protrudes and the pin must be pushed from one side. The problem is to know which side...

I liked the idea of using a lead block, if I can find one. Being poisonous, lead is rather scarce these days.

I have decided not to extract the pins until I can solve the pad problem, because they have to be replaced. The link provided by bildio is very interesting and there are lot of information there. After reading there, I am afraid that standard pads (the type I have) will not work because of the curved surface. So far I have no identified the right material for the pads.

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I agree that a kind of rubber foam should be easy to use and adjust. But where do I find this? May be another modern wind uses this material and I could get new modern pads and cut them to the right size?

Why not send Casey Burns an email & ask what he uses/used for pads. You can mention that you heard about the pads from a satisfied owner.

http://www.caseyburnsflutes.com/

You don't need a lead block for this type of flute.

But don't use serrated-jaw pliers. :-) And don't bend them as you pull them out.

Yes...Sound Advice...

Joe B

Curiosity got to me & I contacted Casey.

"Neoprene closed cell foam is pad material. Cut out disks, apply them with a little bit of superglue, then sand them on a rotating sander wheel to thickness."

OK, thanks. Now I know the name of the rubber. I have to find out who sells this thing around here...

After closer inspection, the pins do seem to be made of steel.

One end is not round but with two small flat faces, the other end is just circular. Could be a hint for the right extracting side? i.e, the flat faces could be prepared for the pliers grip, and so this end should come out first?