flute to oboe
flute to oboe
08:01 on Wednesday, July 19, 2006
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Re: flute to oboe
09:00 on Monday, August 7, 2006
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Re: flute to oboe
03:04 on Thursday, August 10, 2006
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StephenK (395 points)
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Just a few comments on the advice given.
Linton and Kholert oboes are on Peter Hurd's outline of oboe brands as oboes to be avoided: http://oboes.us/resources/makers.html
Any oboe lacking the left hand F mechanism should be avoided. This will knock out any Lesher oboe you will find on ebay and most old oboes on ebay that feature a ring key, but an unusually low price. I did like my Lesher
Yamaha model 211 and 411 share the same bore design, just different keywork. The 241 and 441 series is a bore redesign. The 241 should be avoided though as it lacks left F. The 441 is equivalent to the Fox 333, lacking articulated C#. Though Fox is better regarded.
Here's an interesting oboe brand shootout:
http://www.norapost.com/pintail.html
It is much better to explore handmade reeds. You will find reeds of the same strength actually play at or near the same strength, the pitch is reliable, and the tone is superior that any mass market machine made reed.
You can get them on the cheap or pay out the mouth:
http://www.nielsen-woodwinds.com - This place has the cheapest reliable reeds you can find. Try both the purple and green threads, different makers, different tastes.
http://www.goodtoneguild.com - Lovely reeds. Regular reeds use cork staples, professional reeds use Chudnow brass staples. All reeds come wired unless requested otherwise. Wires come in handy when the reed is approaching death as you can push the wire up and open the reed to give it a far longer life span.
Here's a long list of reed suppliers:
http://www.oboeinsight.com/stories/storyReader$449
Bear in mind one maker's medium may be another's hard. You can talk to these makers personally and tell them what you are currently using and get advise on what would best for you.
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Re: flute to oboe
07:45 on Sunday, August 13, 2006
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Re: flute to oboe
14:12 on Tuesday, August 15, 2006
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oboescanjazztoo (13 points)
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Posted by oboescanjazztoo
I currently play on a Yamaha YOB441 (similar to the YOB411, I believe, which is what my classmates play on) and it has served me very well. I believe this is an intermediate model and it is excellent to me!
Here is some advice on making your first reeds last a little longer. (I made these mistakes when I was first learning.)
1. Never wear chapstick, lip gloss, lipstick, or any kind of lip covering while playing your oboe.
2. When you go to play your oboe, try not to jam the reed into your mouth.
3. In general, watch where your reed is. If you need to get up from where you're practicing, don't leave the reed on the oboe. Accident waiting to happen.
4. Dip your reeds in water when you soak them and then place them somewhere safe for 5 minutes to soak.
Again, I also recommend Marlin Lesher reeds. I've tried the following brands of reeds: Rico, La Voz, Gower, Marlin Lesher (Standard, Artist, and Pro reeds), Chartier Long Scrape, and Vandoren. So far my favorite are the Marlin Lesher Artist Reeds. The Vandorens I bought did not last me long and seemed really fragile. My local music store carries La Voz and they are alright, but I prefer Marlin Lesher Artist reeds. Tip: WWBW usually doesn't carry these reeds. I've had quite a few problems with them when ordering these reeds.
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Re: flute to oboe
23:17 on Friday, August 18, 2006
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Re: flute to oboe
23:37 on Sunday, August 20, 2006
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Re: flute to oboe
18:13 on Sunday, November 5, 2006
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Re: flute to oboe
11:09 on Tuesday, November 14, 2006
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keds723 (1 point)
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I play a mirade of instruments and I specialize in oboe and English Horn, which are virtually the same. I too started on flute and I would have to say that the transition was easier.
At first, it didn't sound quite good and it was hard to play for long periods of time because my cheeks would hurt very badly or I would get extremely dizzy. It hurt...and I didn't know why. But as I practiced more, I got better and the tone of the instrument actually changed from a loud goose like noise to a more controlled goose like noise. As I progressed, it sounded better. The fingerings are virtually the same as the flute, but there are certain tricks that can get you by some of the harder fingerings such as four different alternate fingerings for the F.
So here's some general tips from one oboe player to another:
-Learn how to make your own reeds
Music marts suck when it comes to making double reeds and there's no way to test them. In the meantime, you should check to make sure that there are no cracks and there is about a centimeter of space between the two canes. That should help and increase the longetivity of the reed's life. Also, don't forget to soak them for at least 5 minutes in water when you get them. This helps to make the sound better and helps to ensure the life of the reed.
-Don't give up!
It takes a lot of practice and a lot of people will make fun of you, but just make sure you practice long tones especially in the upper and lower octaves.
-Breathe from your diaphragm.
This helps with playing longer and decreases the amount of pressure your mouth has to use, thus decreasing the cheek pain (which eventually can feel like a numbing pain like after you've been to the dentist). If you're a singer, this should be no problem. You'll notice that once you are able to play at a decent level on the oboe, you can play for 16 measures, exhale, and then play another 4 before needing a breath!!!! This helps with the flute too!
-Embrochere Matters!
Only use about a 16th of an inch of the reed. This helps gain more control over the instrument and again, decreases the pain. NEVER USE YOUR TONGUE! Tonguing on an oboe is awkward and double tonguing is near impossible, so it takes practice. don't rest your tongue on the reed because it will feel really weird. try it. i dare you! Vibratto is achieved through diaphragm rather than embrochere, again another plus side of the singing.
Flute helps with this only with fingering, everything else is different. I hope this helps!!!!
-Kristen
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