What violin do I need

    
What violin do I need    15:33 on Saturday, February 21, 2004          
(D)
Posted by Archived posts

I have just recently strarted to play the violin I have is really very inexpensive. What would be a good violin to buy, that would sound really great


Re: What violin do I need    15:38 on Saturday, February 21, 2004          
(Liz Ward)
Posted by Archived posts

Short answer, Gliga Gama.

Longer answer, you yourself are going to be the limiting factor for a long time. i wouldn`t upgrade just for the sake of it. If you have a teacher and the teacher tells you that you need to upgrade, then go for it. If you haven`t got a teacher, keep the money you would have spent on a better violin and use it to pay for some lessons which will be a lot more help to you at this stage than a better violin.

liz


Re: What violin do I need    23:37 on Saturday, February 21, 2004          
(me)
Posted by Archived posts

I`ve been playing for 10years. All i have learned is that only time will tell. i stared out with a cheap violin and then my grandpa died. apparently, he was a violinist and left his 1909 violin to me.
be patient, the answer will come!


Re: What violin do I need    08:20 on Sunday, February 22, 2004          
(Jeff Flatters)
Posted by Archived posts

I can only reiterate what has been said. Wait. For a long time you will be the limiting factor so, almost anything THAT IS PROPERLY SET-UP will be fine. If, however, you get a chance to play a better violin, take it and file the sound away in your brain for later reference.


Re: What violin do I need    12:04 on Sunday, February 22, 2004          
(D)
Posted by Archived posts

Thanks to all of you for your advise.


Re: What violin do I need    06:01 on Monday, February 23, 2004          
(Martin Milner)
Posted by Archived posts

Before you buy a new instrument, you can try three easy things to improve the tone on the cheapie:

cheapest quickest & easiest: get a Tourte rubber mute and put it on the bridge. Cost a couple of bucks. This is a circle of rubber about the size of a penny which will cut out the shriller tones on your cheapie. Don`t forget to remove it when putting your violin back in the case. It fits over the D&A strings and can be slid back towards the tailpiece without removing it completely.

Better strings: almost certainly you have the cheapest factory no-brand strings, and they`re not going to help you. Putting a brand name set of strings on will help, I would recommend steel core Helicore or synthetic core Dominant to start. If you try this, don`t take off all 4 strings at once because the brige will move and the soundpost might fall. Do two strings at a time.

Third option - get a better bow. I use a bow that cost about £30, so it`s not exactly world class but it`s chalk and cheese compared to the bow that came with my cheap Stentor 1 outfit. The joy of the bow option is that you can keep it when you finally do upgrade the violin.

I use two violins, a cheap Stentor 1 and a much nicer Gliga Gama. I have the same bow & strings for each, and put a tourte mute on the Stentor. It`s still not in the class of the Gama for richness of tone, but it`s OK for practising on when I can`t use the Gama.


   




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