Hi. I have been renting a brand new Bach 1102 for the past few years. Recently,the horn was payed off by my rental payments, and I was given the option to upgrade the horn or keep it. Back when I used to take lessons,my horn instructor said that while the Bach 1102 was a good horn, he would recommend getting something different in the long run to keep. The Bach had a gold finish which he said tended to project out more while a silver finish projected more around the player and was preferred. Due to this, I decided to upgrade my rental. They upgraded me to a brand new Conn 8D which they considered a step above what I had(Bach 1102). My question is, did I do the right thing? My horn instructor moved out of state a few years ago, and I don't know any professional horn players who could give me an opinion on this. I just wanted some opinions on how good the Conn is compared to Bach. I have not heard much about Conn,I have just heard of Holton and Bach when it comes to horns. I realize some of this is personal preference,but I wanted to knew if there is a general consensus as to which one is better. Thanks.

Hi. I did not see an edit button,so I am making another post. There are three tuning slides on this horn,and I'm not sure which is which. The Bb change valve is on the top (Kruspe wrap). One slide is right after the lead pipe on the back which I think is the main slide, the second slide is on the back next to what I think is the main slide which I think is the Bb slide,and the third slide is on the front above the change valve. Is this the f tuning slide? Thanks.

If you follow your leadpipe the first tuning slide is your main tuning slide. The other two slides are both for tuning the F horn. You do not have a Bb only tuning slide on the Conn 8d.

The Conn 8D is a much better horn than the Bach. Handsdown.
Because the horn is silver and you have been playing a yellow brass you will need to work on your articulations. The silver will hinder the attacks just a bit, but you will adjust I am sure.

Ok,thanks for letting me know. Why are there two f slides? I asked someone I play with today who has a Holton,and they told me that the small slide on the front by the change valve was a 'nothing slide'...is it different for that model of horn? Thanks.

There are two F horn slides on the Conn 8d, because there are. The tubing is there because of the style of wrap and the manner in which they want the air to flow. They were not intentionally building an F horn tuning slide into the instrument. It is just the way it worked out. The Conn 6D hs two F Horn slides on the back directly across from each other on the same tube.

The Holton has a F horn slide in the front also, and the small one that faces down is a Bb tuning slide. Either one is only a nothing slide if you do not know how to use them.

To tune your horn to itself you tune a written C with trigger. Then a C without trigger and adjust the F horn to match the Bb horn. To tune the Holton you would preset the main slide, tune the Bb and F horn separately in no specific order. Then use your main slide to adjust to your group.

Ok,thanks for the tip,that is how I was tuning it. One final question...is the Conn 8D laquored or not? I want to know what type of polishing cloth I should get for it. Thanks.

Conn 8D's do have a 'lacquer' if purchased new. Technically nowadays it is not a lacquer but rather a 2 part epoxy. It will last many many years. So there is no need for polishing.

You do want to wipe it down after playing, especially the inside of the bell and the leadpipe area where your left hand goes. It will be a long time before it happens but your oils, seat, etc will eventually wear the lacquer. When the 'lacquer' does wear there will be little itsy bitsy pits. These pits are the demise of good instruments. The pits will focus your acids into the metal and eat a small hole into the horn.
So when you notice the wearing you will want to clean it and put a layer of good quality nail polish. Don't get the cheap stuff, get a small bottle of top quality nail polish. You can use this as touch up paint for small scratches. You can use it to seal your mute if it has a leak. etc etc etc.

Or you could purchase any number of items to keep your hand from touching the metal. there are leather covers, plastic covers, you coudl get a section of clear plastic hose about 2 inchs in diameter and then cut it lengthwise and it will fit right over the lead pipe area. When I was younger I used the leather lace up cover (now they are velcro) It keeps the horn from slipping if you get nervous and sweat. Now-a-days I don't use anything, and I don't wipe it down after I play, and the lacquer is just starting to wear (that's 30 years of playing daily on it).

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Oh jakk,
you have been playing a few years so far.What mouthpiece are you using?
The Conn 8D has a larger bell flare and it more free blowing than the Bach. If you can tell me whaht mouthpiece you are playing now I would be happy to suggest a mouthpiece that is perhaps more fitted and compatible to the new horn.

Hi. Thanks for all of the tips. I know about the oil problem,and I do plan on getting a leather cover for it. I guess by 'polish',I meant rubbing the smudges off of the horn, should I just use a microfiber cloth for that? My biggest fear is rubbing all of the dirt particles,etc. into the horn and creating micro scratches when I wipe it down. I'm not sure if there is a way to prevent this,but I would like to if I could.

As far as mouthpieces go, I am currently using a Constellation 7BW. I have noticed a bit of a change in the air required, I have been getting used to the higher range over the past few days,it is a bit harder to hit higher notes,but it is not as hard as I expected and the sound of the horn makes up for it.

Cleaning,
You can use a micro fibre cloth to wipe. That would be a good idea.
But, realize any time you wipe you will be wiping dirt into the lacqer finish.
You can take a damp cloth and very very gently wipe with a wipe-away motion to get any dust off and then 'polish' the smudges. My best recommendation is to leave them and then once a week rinse the outside of the horn in the shower (this will get the dirt particles off) and then wipe it dry with a soft cloth, microfibre, or diaper.

Mouthpiece :
I would suggest going to something like a Schilke 29 if you are going to do a lot of high horn playing. Also consider a Schilke 31C2, it is big compared to yours. At first you will probably loose 4 - 6 on your high end but these will come back shortly if you follow my advice on playing after having braces removed. You don't have to go with Schilke.

A Schilke 29 I think is close to . . . an Alexander 11
Marcinkiewicz 3
PHC S18
Schmid 105

The 31C2 I think is close to . . . . Alexander 7
Gardinelli C1
Marcinkiewicz 13
Schmid 7
Dennis Wick 5

Thanks for the suggestions. I am looking into getting a Schilke 29. Does it matter if I get gold or solver?

Rim metal is matter of personal preference for the most part.
Although I know someone who could listen blindly and tell 90% of the time what brand horn (often what model)was being played and wether the mouhtpiece was gold or silver. Most people cannot tell the difference. If you are doing a lot of cold playing I think the gold warms up faster and is less likely to stick to your lips. Gold is kinder to your lips, that's why they use it in dentistry.

If you like wet lips and want the mouthpiece to move freely gold is the way to go. If you want the mouthpiece to stay put and you want that feeling of staying then silver is the way to go. When we are younger gold is pretty and nice. I used to do my own gold palting and played on gold for 10 -12 years. Now I play on nickel and raw brass (i do not suggest anyone play on raw brass - really don't do it).