What is a good mouthpiece match-up for a King Eroica 2270? I'm looking for something that will allow me to get the most (as far as tone, volume, etc) out of my horn... Any ideas???

My first choice for you would be a Moosewood A11M with an R2 rim. The set up will cost you about 126$. It will be like you practiced 3 hours a day for the last three weeks.

(http://www.hornmouthpiece.com/)You can order on-line using paypal.

Second choice would be a Shilke 31c2.

Thanks for the response!

I will look into both of those mouthpieces listed.

I'm currently going back and forth between a Schilke 30, and a no-name generic mouthpiece that is similar to a Moosewood. The Schilke 30 is kind of bright, and limits what I can do as far as volume goes, not to mention its rim is wide, which I don't care for very much. The no-name generic mouthpiece is actually pretty good, it has a solid, dark tone, but the finish is almost nonexistent...

What do you think about Laskey mouthpieces?

I have never played on a Laskey mouthpiece.
I looked at their site breifly. I would steer you towards sectional mouthpieces where you can change the rim. At your age you might want to experiment here and there as you grow and it will be cheaper to replace sections rather than complete mouthpieces.

I was brought up on Shilke. And I played a Shilke 30 for quite some time.
I played a Shilke 32 going into college. I then had my Shilke 32 severely modified - severely! I played that professionally for quite a number of years. Since then I have tried PHC's, Sansone, Calicchio. I switched to Moosewood eventually. He makes mouthpieces to fit the horn which I totally agree with. The only thing you should make to fit your lips is the rim. If you don't like the Shilke rim I might change my suggestion on rims. If you want to go big but still have bite you might get the Moosewood M6 rim. You cannot rely on it for endurance like a flater rim, but if you have good chops and are practicing often this is a great rim for articualtion and speaking. It has a sharp round bite to the rim.

Again, if you don't like the shilke rim don't get the Shilke 30. It sounds like you might be more advanced than I thought. If you want a dark dark tone I would try the A-11D with the C backbore. This is a serious dark soft tone. You will feel very little resistance, but if you have air, chops, and confidence this is dark chocolate volcano cake. You might also try the AH-12. Tom Greer has made mouthpieces for all my horns. I have done quite a bit of research on mouthpiece design and he is able to custom my mouthpieces.

Hope this helps more.

I honestly don't like bragging or anything of the sort, but I'm not exactly a beginner or intermediate horn player.

Perhaps you misunderstood, the two mouthpieces that I've been going back and forth on already belong to me. My apologies, as I should have made myself clearer.

I think I will look into the Schilke 31C2 first, just because it is friendlier on the wallet.

One other thing: How do you feel about Giardinelli horn mouthpieces? And do you know by any chance how their numbering system correlates to the sizes?

I know quite a few people who are playing on Girardinelis. Most are using the C1. I do not know the number system.

I also have a ocuple of friends who play on Stork. And Froydis Werke has a special mouthpiece out through Stork. But I don't think Stork is a good match up with the King Eroica.

Hornboy,
Here is a bunch of LAskey information about their sizing I found. It should help you.

Per Laskey:
Our Numbering System As french horn players seem to use the metric system to describe the size of the mouthpieces, we decided to number our line in a metric way. Our line represents the meteric measurement, but we drop the first number. For instance, if a mouthpiece measures : 17,0mm is our 70 series 17,5mm is our 75 series 18,0mm becomes our 80 series 18,5mm becomes our 85 series FRENCH HORN CUP SIZES Our cup selection was determined by what are the most popular sizes being used by players today and what we believe will offer optimum performance. Laskey mouthpieces are available in the following three cup sizes. We have chosen not to offer deeper cups on the shallower mouthpieces as we feel it will not create the proper balance needed. All cup sizes are made with a standard throat size of .182"/("14")/4,62mm. J Slightly more shallow than our G cup, the new J cup offers brilliance but with a bit rounder and sweeter sound. The cup is slightly more conic in shape than our other cups yet has all the brilliance and bite a player may want. G This is our standard cup and is offered in all sizes. In our tests, this cup provided the best mix of tone and color to virtually every player. While slightly shallower than many cups we have seen players use, its performance outshined them all. F A slightly deeper and more funnel cup than the G cup. It will still have the precision of attack that the G cup offers, but with a slightly thicker and rounder sound. A little deeper than the traditional "Farkas" cup. E Deep, yet with a degree of brilliance that is not usually found in a cup this deep. This cup is not only ideal for 2nd and 4th horn, but also has enough brilliance to be used on some of the higher horn parts. French Horn 70/725 Series Laskey Description Compare To (.670"/17,0mm) 70G The first of our designs. For those who play a "Farkas"-style mouthpiece--an ideal selection. Schilke 30 70F A richer texture and a slightly rounder sound. For players who have tried the 70G but seek a warmer sound. Reynolds 6C or Holton MDC 70E A deeper cup mouthpiece, ideal on both low and high parts for players using an 8D style horn. (.679"/ 17,25mm) 725J 725G French Horn 75/775 Series Laskey Description (.689"/17,5mm) 75J 75G For those finding the 70F just a bit tight on the face, but still wanting the traditional "Geyer" sounding mouthpiece. An excellent all-around type mouthpiece. 75F A slightly "richer" sounding mouthpiece while still retaining a brilliance in sound and attack. 75E An ideal selection for "section" work or 2nd and 4th horn in the orchestra. (.699"/17,75mm) 775J 775G For those who found the 75G too small and the 80G too big. French Horn 80/825 Series Laskey Description Compare To .708"/18,0mm 80J 80G For a large diameter mouthpiece, this provides an exceptional brilliance and color in sound. . Well suited for all parts. 80F Ideal for those who like a larger diameter mouthpiece but want to keep the brilliance usually lost in this size. 80E For those players who like rounder sounds but do not wish to lose the "point" on the beginning of the note. A wonderful selection for either a "Geyer" or "8D" style horn Schilke 31B or 31BH .718"/18,25mm 825J 825G French Horn 85 Series .728"/18,5mm 85E Slightly larger than the 80 series. 85F 85G

Hey John thanks for the research! I've actually gotten a mouthpiece already- a Giardinelli G17. It's got a moderately deep cup with a smaller bore. The high register with it is pretty solid, and the tone is clean. Nice attacks too...
Thanks again though, you really are an asset to this forum!

Hi there,
I'm hoping John might chime in for me... right now I play on a Holton MDC. I'm looking to change up to a switchable rim mouthpiece or just try something different in general. I started on the Holton MC. I play the Atkinson A800 (built like an 8D kruspe horn)... and I'd like to get a little assistance in high notes without sacrificing the lows too much... is the Moosewood combo you mention above the way to go?
Thanks so much!

Jules, based on your history I would recommend the Moosewood F12 underpart. I like the m6 rim but you might also like the R2 rim. The m6 gives me top notch security. If you rely on the rim for support and endurance look at a different rim. But if you use little pressure go for the m6. The F12 underpart is designed for the Kruspe wrap, you should like it a lot.

Sweet thanks John, yeah it's hard starting 'over' again but knowing the notes SHOULD be there.

Should I have the 'megamoose' version built for me, or do you think it's overkill? Right now I'm only playing in a band, no orchestral work.
Thanks again!

No need for the megamoose.
When I am not busy playing for money I play once a week in a community band my freind conducts and can cover the whole group with a regular underpart, no cracking and no edginess. In my pit work I have found no need for it. In my orchestral playing I use a C1NSP and again haven't found a need for the megamoose. I think if you go and play with Chicago Symphony you might need it.

For now just stick with the regular underpart. If you find yourself really happy with it and you have some extra money down the road, AND you find yourself belting out loud parts, then get a megamoose for the fun of it. I think the design of the A800 will be more of an issue with edginess before you have to rely on the mouthpiece change. Did you get the A800 in nickel or yellow brass? If brass is it lacquered?

I second what John says about Moosewood mpcs. I've been told by professional horn players that Tom Greer, the maker of Moosewood mpcs is probably the most knowlegeable mouthpiece maker out there. When I needed a mpc for my Merker, I told him what horn I played, what mpc I'd been using, what I wanted to sound like, what kind music I usually play, etc. and let HIM make a recommendation. (You can email him or call him.) I was tired of spending money trying out mouthpieces; I needed something that worked. I'm very pleased w/ what he came up with. Everyone in my horn quartet, agrees that I sound much better w/ my Moosewood. I didn't buy the mega moose, just the regular one. valerie