Dallas Brass was started in 1983.

If it is a HR952DB that should be a nice horn. Check the valves for compression - you don't need great compression but you do need some compression. One at a time pull each valve slide out, wait 2 seconds and then depress the valve lever. There shold be some type of sound.

If you played it and it sounds good to you, go for it.

(in fun)
Wait?! This is yellow brass?! ?! ?! You sure you can live with yellow brass?! I thought yellow brass horns sounded like trumpets?

I actually was disappointed that it's yellow brass. It pretty much plays the same as my Conn, but the fingerings are easier and smoother to do. There's no clinking or resisting in the valves. I haven't checked the compression... it didn't cross my mind. What's the significance of compression? Will this horn last through college as a pro horn, or should I keep looking?

I haven't played the Accent myself, yet. But the 952 the DB uses are suppposed to be good. There is no reason this can't last you through college. As a pro-horn is an entirely different question and it's not so much your instrument but where and what you plan on playing and the environment at the time. I know some very good players who have walked into auditions and been told they were wasting their time because they didn't have the correct 'brand' of horn.

Compression - if the valves leak severely (no compression) you will have serious intonation problems. If the valves are worn a little bit you will have an easier time with slurs. If the valves are very tight with top compression you will find slurring a bit tricky until you get used to it on that horn.

Even if it is a good deal you may want to think twice before buying. If you really don't want a brass horn, as good as this one might be, if you don't like brass you may be less likely to practice. I would not like to see you drop a whole bunch of money down on something you are not going to be happy with. Perhaps keep your eyes out for a Yamaha 668N ot 668ND.

Thanks for the advice. I told my director about a Farkas that was reasonably priced, and I bought it. It's really nice. I think it takes more air than the schools Conn, though.

I tried another Accent and the tone was poor, and I heard that Accents are pretty inconsistent. My mom, who know almost nothing about horns, even said she liked the sound of the Farkas better.

The shop did have to fix the valves before I bought it. They said something about the bearings clinking, and they tightened it or something. The valves seem fine now. I hope that my horn doesn't get that problem again. Does this fix have anything to do with the compression?

The Farkas was $1920.

The Holton Farcus model is a good choice. Clinking valves are related to wear, specifically bearings. The 'fix' they did is probably a shim/collar repair. Yes it does have something to do with compression as it has everything to do with alignment. This is a common repair that is not done often enough. It is very wise and very kind of them to do this for you. And that is an approriate price for the model in that condition.

Be sure to oil your horn regularly, it will help the repair last longer.

I will, and thanks for everything!

I have tried an Accent horn. I my opinion, it's not as nice as Conn, Holton, Atkinson, Yamaha, King, Reynolds. It's hard to describe, but Accent horns are made with less metal in the places that need strength & reinforcing such as braces and the open ends of the valve slides. The one I played, played well, but, but I don't think it will be as durable as the other brands I've mentioned.

Valerie Wells
"The Balanced Embouchure" for French Horn
Wells123456@juno.com

you've hit a common misconception, the horn has a slow response because of the valves (which are very leaky). a yamaha 668 has a good response coupled with the massively warm sound of the large, nickel silver bell.