Hello Valerie,
Would you please send me a copy of your scales and fingering chart?
Thanks,
Michael
zoarhorn@hotmail.com

OMG PLEASE! Send me those exercises....I just bought a horn after a 20 year "break". Gonna take some work to get back to "concert quality" again!


sandyj.mcarthur@gmail.com


Thanks!!!

Is there anyone that did NOT get the exercises yet? Did I miss anyone? Email me if you didn't

ValerieW78 "at" gmail "dot" com

Valerie Wells
www.BEforHorn.blogspot.com

I just wanted to say that the six months I've been playing Val's exercises have made a huge difference in my ability to play fast notes. Unluckily, I cannot study for as long as I'd like, but even not playing these exercises more than half an hour a week (and some times not even that), the results are great. Thanks!

Thanks, Colombo! Your check in in the mail for that indorsement. ;o)

Valerie Wells, the exercise geek
www.BEforHorn.blogspot.com

I am upgrading from single to double, so I am expecting some fumbling fingers. Even worse, I don't know when I should activate the E flat and whether the horn does the transposing or I have to mentally do that, too.

I played in high school in a time when double horns were unheard of at that level, had a 45 year break, and have picked up with a community band which I just love doing.
We rehearse once a week, and at most I practice new music once a week. My playing career is not likely longer than around 12 years. I want to buy a used horn. Quality is much more important to me than cosmetics. Of course I am familiar with the quality of Yamaha, CONN, and Holton but haven't yet found one I can afford--around $700-800. I see makers Styer from Austria, King, Jupiter, Eastman, Amati, Barrington, Cecilio, Zephyr, Durand, Rossetti, and Jin Yin. I have done Internet research for days (to the extent it is possible with nonpartisans. There are just too many to research. Could you narrow my search by eliminating four or five of the worst I list above. (Someone told me Cecilio is lower priced because it is a young company needing to get its instruments into the marketplace to build a reputation. I found one commentator say the Chinese have much improved lately--another who is 180 degrees off.)

When the music says "horn in Eb" you have to transpose by playing everything down one whole step. In other words, an F becomes an Eb, an A becomes a G, a C becomes a Bb, etc.

It's going to be a challenge, but not impossible to find a good serviceable double horn for that price. I'm a Holton loyalist, so I always steer people to used Holtons... but I'm sure there are other horns out there that will work.

If you haven't received my exercises and would like them shoot me an email:

ValerieW78 "at" gmail "dot" com

Valerie Wells
http://bebabe.wordpress.com/
http://www.beforhorn.blogspot.com/

All the music my band plays is in F for the horns. When should I opt for the E flat trigger? My understanding is one activates it to assist with playing high notes one would otherwise be stretching for. Is that correct when playing a piece written in F? Then I would transpose a whole step only for the notes for which I use the trigger. Right? Does one ever play an piece written in F entirely with the E flat trigger?

I've never heard of an Eb trigger. (Maybe John can enlighten us here.) The only trigger I know of is the Bb trigger on a double horn. The trigger on a double horn usually switches the air to flow through the shorter tubing on the Bb side of the double horn. (There are a few horns that are reversed, but in the USA the trigger usually switches the horn to Bb.) My fingering chart has the typically preferred fingerings for using the F side (no trigger) and the Bb side (trigger engaged). Generally the recommendation is to switch to Bb side above second space G and between Db and F in the low register. You'll see that in my chart.

Valerie Wells
http://bebabe.wordpress.com/
http://www.beforhorn.blogspot.com/

Horns/Keys/Exercises

KatherineK - good buys for the buck for what you want to do would be King, Jupiter, and Cecilio. If you are in the UK I might also suggest John Packer. China has made quite a bit of progress in instruments that sound better than they used to; however I do not think they have made the step up in quality metal on the student instruments. This very evident when you need repairs and the repair people can't repair them because the metal is of such low quality. Perhaps if you got a Chinese professional model you'd be okay- but not a Chinese begining or intermediate horn.

Change Valves :: Usually when we talk about the "Trigger" we are talking about a change valve. The most common is the change valve on the double horn. In America most horns will stand in F and the change valve will move you to Bb Horn. This has changed recently - I know a lot of players who have studied with Barrows or Stamp (or disciple of) and they have their horn sitting in Bb so that change valve throws it into F. There are advantages to this expecially if you are in a situation where you will be playing a descant horn or high Bb Wagner tuben part regularly. There are Bb-Eb(alto) change valves, mostly found on Schmid descant and triple horns. The Eb alto sounds so much better in the high tessitura than the f-alto. That said I think KatherineK is temporarily confused or misled and she probably has an F to Bb change valve. I have horns in F/Bb, Bb/f-alto, Bb/C/A/Ab, D, C/Bb/A/F#.

Regarding transposition - I hope this doesn't confuse anyone. The fingering charts are what I call false fingerings or transposed fingerings. What this means is you are taught these fingerings as though they are F horn fignerings. When you learn them this way you don't have to worry about transposing when you use them. If your mind is quick and you have to play a Bb part, you can engage your Bb horn and use the F fingerings.

Dos this help answer some of those questions?

Mea culpa. My typo caused the confusion. I intended Bb.

I am not all together sure that I do comprehend John's explanation, but I will recite back what I gather and you tell me if I am correct or not. OK?

I get Valerie's explanation that describes my understanding of using the change valve to assist with high notes.(I don't consider second space G high. I was expecting to change for fourth space C or fifth line D and above.) I didn't realize it would assist with low notes, too.

John, your use of the phrase "have to play a Bb part" is unclear to me. Are you referring to a piece of music written in Bb? Or do you support Valerie's intention of deciding when to use the change valve to convert the horn to the key of Bb? I think the word "part" makes me unsure that I get it.

I very much appreciate your advice on the manufacturers as I am unable to find a double Holton for less than $1,100. I suppose it could be caused by Valerie's promotion.
No, Valerie, if I had the funds I would buy the Merker also.

Yay! I'm glad to hear it was just a typo. But because of that many people know there ARE Bb/Eb horns. So it was a good educational typo.

I don't know if this is Valeries reason for changing where she does but many teachers recommend changing where Valerie suggests for reasons of tuning. I recommend these fingerings to my early students so that they can match and blend easier with most people theey play with.

My use of the phrase "have to play a Bb part" means if you are given a part written for HOrn in Bb. In the Orchestra world, Opera world, and even in Musical pits you will get parts written for horn in different keys. When this happens you have to transpose. So I am not refering to piece written in Bb key signature but a piece written for a Bb instrument. A good example would be if the trumpet player doesn't show up and you have to play the trumpet music.

I would absolutly LOVE a copy and also, do know where I could get a double horn fingering chart? sugarglider846@gmail.com

Hi Val, I would love a copy of the fingering chart if it's still available please? I've just got a french horn on loan to learn after playing trumpet for the last 15 years - this should be fun! My email is liz_eclair@hotmail.com Thanks!

Hi. I would also like a copy of the fingering chart please. I've played french horn for over 30 years now and my fingering is still quite slow Last year I bought a doublehorn and i find the discussion about changing between f/Bb very interesting i've learned a few new things

My email is u-erland@online.no Thanks!